who says this town doesn't like cyclists?
One of the hottest recent changes in the two-wheeler is fixed gears, first seen on "track bikes" used for training during the 1950s.
A fixed-gear bike is a single-speed bicycle, and its popularity lately seems unlimited, with many Thais calling it a "lifestyle" rather than a form of sport. No freewheel means the pedals are always in motion when you're rolling, which adds to the challenge and the enjoyment.
Meanwhile BMX bikes - quite popular in Thailand 30 years ago - are booming here again, with fresh designs and innovations.
Bangkok at the moment has hundreds of young riders establishing a community for fans of fixed-gear and BMX bikes.
On any given day you can see 30 or so fixed-wheel devotees showing off on the grounds of Dusit Palace, astride beautifully decorated bikes, while the BMX crowd gets together as "the Old School Club" at the park beneath the Rama VIII Bridge.
"At both parks we share experience, knowledge and spare parts," says 40-year-old Korakot "Kla" Duangkao, who's punishing his machinery at Dusit Palace daily from 9pm to 2am.
"It's my routine - if I don't ride, I can't sleep."
Kla took up cycling in 2006 on his doctor's advice, as a means of physical therapy following an accident. He was soon enjoying the outings around his home in Nakhon Pathom. Most weekends he rides to the popular Don Wai market.
"I opted for a touring bike because it's suitable for my lifestyle and my size," says the hefty Kla.
"Our club was set up two years ago, and we're all friends even though I don't have a fixed-gear and can't do the same tricks.
"We always ride to Yaowarat Road to eat before splitting for home."
Stunts are the appeal Udomsak "Golf" Saetang, who grabbed a fixed-gear bike three years ago after seeing videos of what they can do. He's spent Bt8,000 dolling it up.
"I was inspired by an older guy who had a fixed gear and met up with friends in Chatuchak Park," Golf says. "Doing tricks is challenging, and I'm always trying to top the last one."
Golf dazzles spectators with his "Skid Show", a "Bar Spin" with the front wheel in the air, and the backward-pedalling "Circle". He calls his newest trick "Hop Bar" - spinning the handlebar 360 degrees in mid-jump.
Golf has a sideline in customising other people's bikes, ordering parts from Taiwan and the US.
Samarn "Piek" Buajaroen, 38, is another tricky guy on two wheels but also a collector. He's well known for his vintage fixed-gear models from the 1970s and '80s and can produce spare parts and second-hand frames from Japan, Italy and elsewhere, with prices starting at Bt30,000.
"I have 14 vintage fixed-gear bikes," Piek says. "They were always my childhood dream."
For the full history, talk to Kriengkrai "Kong" Piriyaanon, 25, who spent some years in the US and has a collection of eight rare vintage fixed gears.
"I first saw one four years ago while studying in New York - a friend rode it to the university. I was fascinated by the beautiful design, especially the older models."
Kong spent anywhere from Bt10,000 to Bt120,000 on second-hand frames and parts at markets in Bang Na and Pathumwan and tapped professional cyclists as well.
"My older brother and his friends, including the actor Monton 'Jay' Jira, were the pioneers of fixed-gears in Bangkok two years ago. They all stayed with me in New York and fell in love with them."
Kong and his pals plan to further promote their hobby with a series of books.
Meanwhile over at the Rama VIII Bridge, 35-year-old Prach "Jew" Prasertkulchai is showing why he's the superstar of BMX biking. He's been doing stunts on two wheels for 20 years and collecting BMX models since he was a kid. He owns bikes by Kuwahara, Subrosa and Haro, all very popular in the '80s and '90s.
There are four ways to show off on a BMX - Racing, Flatland, Freestyle and Street - and Jew's good at all of them. You can't help but feel a thrill when he sails past you while standing on the saddle with his arms extended.
"I love BMX bikes because of the classic look, which is what made them very popular in Thailand 25 years ago," Jew says. "I made a bicycle using my own ideas, spare parts and an imported frame."
It's getting harder to follow Jew because Montri Ruschakorn, 38, has just flown by on his 1983 Silver Streak BMX by Diamond Black. He's "Sailing" - riding a pedal and the back axle. Now he's doing a "Manual", lifting the front wheel while balancing on the pedals.
"I started riding when I was 13 and started practising tricks from videos," Montri says.
It looks like he and Jew are all done practising
